Happy 100th Birthday Julia: A Loving Tribute

This August 15 would have marked the 100th birthday of the late great Julia Child. Around the country restaurants and individuals alike are celebrating the life and legacy of this great woman. She was more than just the woman who taught us to cook French food. Her greater achievement perhaps was the reintroduction of the joy of cooking to an America that was being sucked into a vortex of fast, easy and convenient. Her delightful nonchalance, infectious laugh, breathless warble and certainly her unusual height made her unforgettable. As for me, she represents everything I have ever strived for and worked toward, not just as a chef, but as a woman.

Julia McWilliams was not born a chef and foodie. In fact, she did not arrive at her passion until well into her 30's. "I was 32 when I started cooking; up until then, I just ate." Her discovery of good food and wine was directly a result of having met the love of her life, Paul Child. Not unlike Julia, I did not particulary have an affinity for food and cooking until I met the love of my life, Jeff. Our courtship revolved around him taking me to new restaurants of various ethnicities and showing me that food wasn't taboo. It was an opportunity to learn something and to experience a social experience unlike any other.

Julia became a Francophile as a result of her introduction to food and her lifelong mission was to teach people not only of the virtues of French cooking, but to appreciate French sensibilities of life, love, good food, good company and passion. To her, the greatest things in life were the company of good friends around a fantastic and carefully prepared meal. "In France, cooking is an art form and a national sport." I was a Francophile prior to my introduction to cooking. I have always had a passion for the language and the culture and in fact got one of my two bachelor's degrees in French. Having spent 6 months in Paris for my Sophomore year study abroad, I understand the infatuation Julia had with the city and the country in general. There is something you simply cannot explain to those who have not been there. Some kind of warmth, like a passionate embrace that envelopes you the moment you step out onto the Parisian streets.

Julia's foray into the world of television was really a case of being in the right place at the right time. Not necessarily her ultimate goal. That being said, she was nothing if not a natural. Not a beautiful woman by any means, in fact, in many ways she was quite awkward and gangly at 6 feet 2 inches in height. But she had that je ne sais quoi. That IT factor that you so often hear people talk about. She was quick witted, funny, unashamed of her imperfections and down to earth. People could relate to her and weren't intimidated by her. If she could do it, then there was no reason why you or I couldn't do it. "Find something you are passionate about and keep tremendously interested in it." Her passion for what she did was evident even until her later years in life when her health began to fail. Everyone who met her was instantly enthralled by her. Her charisma was infectious to say the least.

And always with her was her partner in crime. Her best friend and lover. The butter to her bread. Paul. I think it was truly one of the great partnerships in history. One that I believe inspires me and Jeff to do what we do every day. Nothing in life is worth much if you cannot do it besides the one you love. "The secret of a happy marriage is finding the right person. You know they're right if you love to be with them all of the time."

Dear Julia. Happy birthday. Thank you for your inspiration, your guidance and your honesty. Myself and many of us will forever remember you fondly. I will leave you with a couple of my favorite Julia quotes and a reminder that no matter what might go wrong in the kitchen, always think to yourself, what would Julia do?

"Cooking is like love, it should be entered into with abandon or not at all."

"Everything in moderation, including moderation."

"How can a nation be called great if its bread tastes like kleenex."

"The best way to execute french cooking is to get good and loaded and whack the hell out of a chicken. Bon appétit."

Bon appetit Julia!

Love, Mini Julia

Food Politics: Big Business Versus the Future

"Congressional reluctance to favor children's health above the rights of soft drink producers is a direct result of election laws that require legislators to obtain corporate funding for their campaigns. Like most corporations, soft drink companies donate funds to local and national candidates. More rational campaign financing laws might permit Congress to take positions based on public good rather than private greed." p. 217, Food Politics by Marion Nestle

This quote more than perhaps any other in this 400 page tome summarizes in a nutshell what the book Food Politics is all about. It analyzes every aspect of the food industry from its marketing practices to new product development to regulation of supplements. It is a brilliant, eye opening work, which despite the fact that it was published in 2003 is as relevent if not more so today when corporate donations are even more inextricably tied to the works of Congress and the election of candidates for office.

One of the central issues at hand in the politics of food is the conflict of interest between freedom and regulation. According to Nestle, what we perceive to be our freedom to choose what we put into our bodies is not actually a result of democracy but rather a product of brilliant marketing which subliminally if not blatantly drives our decisions about consumption. The primary target of this marketing tends to be the most economically deprived and even more heinously those who cannot make sound decisions for themselves, our children.

It's no secret that there is an obesity epidemic in this country. Statistics about current childhood obesity and estimates of the levels of obesity in the coming decades are on the news constantly. We are in a serious health crisis in this country that will not only affect our individual rights, but the economics of our future. Individuals who are dying of diseases directly attributable to diet are a burden on society and particularly in the younger set will create a serious gap in manpower in the not so distant future. For example, many of today's kids will not be able to pass a fitness test necessary to serve in our armed forces. If there was a need to build an army and nobody is fit enough to serve our national security is in serious trouble.

Today more than ever, we have a situation where we are concerned with economic growth. Let's face it, all businesses are alive to make a profit. That's what business is all about. But, at what point does responsibility to society as a whole come into the picture? I'm not talking about socialism, I'm talking about the perpetuation of society and the golden rule. Should businesses be allowed to profit on the backs of those who are becoming ill and dying from what they produce? At what point does life mean more than money? It's something we all have to ask ourselves when we step into the voting booth. Food corporations and agribusiness lobbyists are amongst the largest in the country and they are wooing candidates on both sides of the aisle.

Awareness of health and nutrition is out there and more and more people are subscribing to the tenets of farm to table and sustainability. But this represents a very small portion of our food system. While government makes it easier for corporations to produce frankenfoods with outrageous health proclamations by relaxing their regulations, it makes it increasingly difficult for small family farms to grow and sell real natural food to you and me. That's no mistake. That is by design.

So what can you or I do about it? Money talks. Where you choose to spend your dollar speaks volumes. Your purchasing habits may seem insignificant in the grand scheme of things, but if everyone were to act with their dollars that would send a message to these corporations where it counts, in their pocketbooks. Ultimately we have to take back control of our lives by choosing wisely and voting wisely because what is happening is not ok. Become your own advocate. And next time you are in the grocery store and deciding upon the liter bottle of sweetened cola, pass it by and purchase some juicy naturally sweet fruit instead. Your body will thank you.

Inspiration

One of the things I find most exciting about being a chef is when I am inspired to create something out of the blue. Sometimes it is a random thought or something I read that sparks the inspiration, but often it is a result of a need to create something to accommodate a dietary restriction. Some people find this incredibly stressful. I find it a unique challenge and a distinct opportunity to express myself creatively while creating a special experience for someone that has been marginalized to some extent because of what they can and cannot eat. If I can give someone pleasure through food when they felt like that opportunity was no longer available to them, I have done something truly remarkable and something that I feel very proud of.

This week, despite the fact that I'm still in recovery mode after having had surgery just a couple of weeks ago, I was inspired by just such a challenge. I needed a dessert for someone who was lactose intolerant so my usual go to that I am quite well known for, creme brulees of various flavors, was out. Chocolate desserts are also out as most involve some kind of dairy. I was leaning toward sorbet but I didn't want to do someting average, namely a mainstream flavor. Then I thought, what if I was in Morocco. What flavors would I lean toward for a special sorbet?? Then I looked at what I had in the house and decided I'd try an orange sorbet.

While I don't have an exact recipe because I was just tossing and adding stuff until it tasted right, the basic recipe included 2 Cara Cara oranges, zest from those two oranges, 1 cup of water, 1 cup of sugar, 1 cup of honey, 2 tbl vanilla extract, 2 tbl orange blossom water, 2 tsps ground cinnamon, 2 tsps ground ginger, a huge pinch of saffron, roughly a cup or so, perhaps more, of Simply Orange juice and finally just a cup or so of plain soy milk (although I suspect almond or rice milk would work just as well). A final last minute addition was about 2 cups of toasted almond slivers that I folded after I had frozen the sorbet to about a soft serve with an ice cream machine. So I guess you'd call it a Moroccan Inspired Orange, Saffron and Almond Sorbet. It yielded about 12 or so large servings.

I heated the water and sugar in a microwave on high for 3 mins. Then stir to dissolve any remaining sugar. Then I heated an additional 3 minutes to create a simple syrup. This was then added to the 2 peeled oranges, the zest from those oranges, saffron, cinnamon, ginger, vanilla and the orange blossom water in a Vitamix or food processor and pureed until smooth. I then strained the mixture to get any bits of pith out of the mixture. To that I added the honey, orange juice and soy milk and whisked until well combined. This was frozen in a home model ice cream machine until soft serve, folded with the almonds and then I put it in the freezer overnight to finish freezing. And voila. Here is a photo:

The Problem with Next Food Network Star

Many of you are going to look at the title of this blog and think, ok, sour grapes. Quit whining. While there is some truth to that, I think I can back up my stance pretty easily. It's no secret that I've been yearning to have my own show on any tv network focusing on Mediterranean inspired cuisine. Many of you have supported me in this endeavor, seen my pilot, came to my fundraiser to help find an agent and sent in letters to the Food Network. Over and over again upon teaching cooking classes or after appearances on Paula Sands Live! you encourage me, telling me I should have my own cooking show or I'd be great on Chopped.

Well, here is the problem. I've tried. I have repeatedly sent in applications to show after show after show to no avail. Apparently I am having trouble getting their attention. It doesn't matter if I cook food that many people love or if I have natural ability to cook, teach and entertain at the same time as I often do in my cooking classes. The network execs simply don't know I exist and are having trouble finding this needle in an ever growing haystack of would be Julia Childs.

Why?? I have a theory. Have you noticed how arrogant and nasty some of the personalities on these shows can be?? Many present an over the top persona that not only looks over the top but appears to have over the top ego. The problem is I'm too much Tinkerbell and not enough Lady Gaga. I have lofty ideas that I might be recognized for being a good chef, one who presents the kind of food that is missing on the television scene and one who is just cute, nice and down to earth. Unfortunately, while this may be the kind of person who would ultimately produce a "star," it isn't the kind of person who would initially get ratings on a reality competition show that thrives on conflict.

So the question is, how does someone who refuses to play the bitch get the attention of the kind of formulaic media production that is the Food Network?? How do I convince them that nice and talented are enough for ratings and in the long run will create a star that has staying power, not just a one shot wonder??

I'm not sure of the answer but I'm certainly going to keep working at it. Until then, I'll keep doing what I do best, which is cooking with passion and passing along that passion to those who really love food, not sensationalism. Perhaps one day this passion is what will get me noticed. I may be a small fish in a big pond, but eventually even a tadpole grows up into a bullfrog and can hop onto the biggest lily pad in the pond. I'm hoping that this bullfrog will be hopping onto the Food Network lily pad sooner rather than later.

The Sad Truth About Our Industrialized Food System

I find it incomprehensible how institutions like schoools, hospitals and nursing homes have become the lowest rung of importance in our industrialized food system. I don't know if any of you have had the occasion of late to experience any of the foods served at any of these institutions but the situation is atrocious.

Many of you know that I have spent some time working with children and doing cooking demos at schools trying to educate kids on the benefits of healthy eating. Part of that was inspired by the likes of Jamie Oliver's Food Revolution, part by the White House Let's Move initiative, but basically I was motivated to try to connect with kids and show them that healthy doesn't necessarily mean yucky. Believe it or not, kids are much more open minded than we think they are. If you give them the opportunity to try new things, they are quite receptive. That being said, when you see what they are actually being fed by school cafeterias, it is incredibly disheartening. All the education and encouragement in the world won't be worth a darn thing if they continue serving the slop they do in schools.

Many kids in this country only have 2 meals a day and they are the 2 that they get for free at school. When all they are being fed is fried, fatty, white starches and processed, pre-packaged frankenfoods it is no wonder that we are suffering from an epidemic of obesity amongst school aged children. It is absolutely disgusting.

However, if you think schools are bad, nursing homes are even worse. About a month and a half ago my grandmother had to be admitted to a nursing home and I frequently had occasion to visit her during meal times. A sampling of the "food" she has been fed that supposedly meets some kind of minimal nutritional requirement includes items like cheetos, white bread, mashed potatoes from a box, chocolate cookies, chocolate or strawberry milk, sloppy joes and mystery meat I have yet to identify as having come from any particular animal. While I understand there are huge costs associated with running a nursing facility, many older individuals suffer from numerous dietary restrictions associated with everything from diabetes to heart problems to diverticulitis to acid reflux. You can't tell me that these foods qualify as healthy for those individuals. Heck, I don't think they qualify as healthy for even a younger individual without any health problems.

And last week, when I was in the hospital after what I'd call moderately invasive surgery, the items offered to me for meals included hamburgers, pizza, grilled cheese sandwiches, cake, cookies, flavored milk, veggies with ranch dressing and JELLO. When I asked the gentleman if they had yogurt, I was promptly told that never in the years that he has been working at that hospital has anyone ever asked for or been served yogurt. I was mortified.

What has to occur in the history of an industrialized food system that places such little value on the most vulnerable members of the population? I understand the food lobby is huge and I get that food manufacturers are being paid government subsidies to provide these institutions with cheap food in abundance, but why do we stand for it?? Are we so desensitized to what good food is that we actually believe that this kind of food is healthy or even remotely nutritious??

It makes sense that kids are not standing up for something better because they don't know any better, but their parents should be angered by what they are being fed. And the adult children of those who are in nursing homes should be even more insensed by what their parents are being fed. What's more is that any patient who has ever been in a hospital should be outraged by the offerings they are being given when they are at their most fragile. I don't know about you but for me, it's not ok. Something has to be done. I don't believe that the system cannot be changed by a few people. If one person gets another person to speak up against this kind of atrocity, eventually we'll have an army of folks speaking out against what I think is the deliberate poisoning of a vast segment of our population. We have to realize at some point that what we put into our bodies in the form of food is as important if not more important than any kind of medication you might be prescribed. We have to get back to a society where food is real, not synthetic. Respected, not abused. It's time for us all to wake up and smell the coffee before it's too late.

Dear Mr. Comedien

Dear Mr. Comedian

A couple of weeks ago we were watching comedian Bill Engvall do stand-up and he came to a section where he was ranting about his awful experience at a bed and breakfast. While obviously he was going for a laugh, he proceeded to outline a list of stereotypes about bed and breakfasts that we as innkeepers fight to debunk constantly. As a result, I felt compelled to write a letter to him. Here it is. Enjoy.

Dear Mr. Bill Engvall.

My husband and I are big fans. We happened to catch one of your stand-up routines recently where you were describing your terrible experience at a bed and breakfast your wife dragged you to. As innkeepers, we felt the need to share a few things with you about bnb’s that you may have not realized. Gone are the days of the home stays where you are surrounded by lace and “antiques” that are more what I’d call old stuff rather than something expensive and historical. Here to stay are properties that want to compete with the top luxury hotels in the world, pampering you in every possible way they can think of. High tech amenities like wi-fi, satellite tv, vast movie libraries and innkeepers who Tweet, Post on Facebook, Pin and make cool videos on Youtube are the new norm. But let me be more specific and address some of your unique qualms.

First, shared bathrooms. While shared bathrooms were common in bnb’s when they first hit the scene, most American bnb’s know that people do not enjoy sharing and most have en suite private baths. Not only that, many offer upgrades like Jacuzzi tubs, heated floors/towel racks, signature spa quality toiletries, fluffy robes, soft water and super fluffy towels. That way you don’t have to worry about who is going to “smell” after you and you won’t have to worry about running into anyone in the hall in the middle of the night in your skivvies.  

Second, hard mattresses and uncomfortable bedding. I can assure you that the bedding/mattress industry for bnb’s is big business. Not a conference goes by where numerous vendors don’t appear with the highest quality sheets and newest upgrades in pillows and mattresses. In fact, most bnb’s have upgraded pillow top mattresses that would rival any high end hotel. Sheets are so satiny it is like sleeping on an Indian sari and pillows have been designed to be snore resistant, sweat resistant, crick in the neck resistant, stain resistant, bug resistant and practically perfect in every way like Mary Poppins.

Third, frou frou breakfasts that you have to eat with a bunch of other people you don’t know. Now, as a bnb that specializes in gourmet food, I’m not going to feed you foams on a cloud of egg dust with essence of bacon. I’m going to feed you a hearty yet elegant breakfast that you will feel satiated by and will fuel you for a day of whatever it is you might want to do. And while you can opt to enjoy a meal with others at the bnb, if you make it known you are interested in dining privately, most inns will make it happen. We don’t require you to become best friends with the couple in the room next door as part of the inn’s rules.

Finally, area attractions that are less than attractive. Believe it or not, if you inquire about activities with the innkeepers of any bnb, they will give you a long list of many different kinds of activities geared toward almost any taste. Mancations are big business and if you are looking for fishing, beer, golf or something that doesn’t involve antiques and girly shopping, it’s out there no problem. You just have to ask.

So my point is give bnb’s a chance. I know that in the past things were a little different. But to quote the Professional Association of Innkeepers International bnb’s are the “Better Way to Stay.” Each is unique. Exploring them is exciting and an opportunity to experience intimately the best there is to see of any given area. So please Mr. Engvall, please come stay with us. Let us pamper you and change your mind for good about how great bnb’s can really be. And maybe if we succeed we could score a couple of tix to your next show? Wink wink.

Sincerely,

Monika and Jeff Sudakov, Innkeepers

Chestnut Street Inn

Courtesy of the Bureau County Republican

Happy National Eggs Benedict Day!!!

Today is National Eggs Benedict Day. Eggs Benedict is definitely one of my favorite breakfasts. I happen to love my eggs poached and still runny. The creamy yolks to quote the movie Julie and Julia are like "cheese sauce." I do get bored with the traditional version however so I started messing around with the recipe and came up with the following. I served it about a month or so ago. The only thing traditional about it was the poached eggs and the Hollandaise Sauce.

A quick note about poaching eggs. You can poach them the old fashioned way in a pot of gently simmering water with a hint of vinegar in it, but that can be really tricky and very time consuming. My preference is to use an egg poaching pan, which you can get at most high end kitchen supply stores. It makes perfect little poached eggs that are all uniform in shape and size. To keep eggs warm if you plan on doing a bunch of them, place the poached eggs in a bowl of warm water until you are ready to serve. This keeps them warm, but stops the cooking process so they don't get overdone.

Also, I'm a Hollandaise Sauce snob. There is no place for a packaged mix of Hollandaise in my book, especially because many of the packaged mixes are not gluten free and have numerous fillers in them including a ton of sodium. It is extremely easy to make and nothing replaces the real thing. I use good quality cage free eggs that I know are fresh so there is no concern about salmonella.

Eggs Benedict a la Crab Louie

Crab Louie is a sauce made with crab, asparagus and Hollandaise that often goes over a filet or a chicken breast. In this case I decided to put it over my poached eggs for a new and improved version of Eggs Benedict. If you do not like crab or have an allergy, just do the roasted asparagus with the Hollandaise and skip the crab part. Instead of english muffins I use home baked rolls which are much heartier and absorb the creamy eggs and sauce really well.

Rolls

Yields: 10 Servings

3 1/2 cups All Purpose Flour
6 Tbl Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1 tsp Kosher Salt
1/2 cup plus 1 tsp granulated Sugar
2 tsps Yeast
1 1/2 cups water (110 degrees)

Place yeast, 1 tsp sugar and lukewarm water in a large bowl. Make sure the water is at the proper temperature or the yeast will not be activated properly. Allow to stand in a warm place for 10 minutes or until the yeast becomes frothy. Add salt, sugar, oil and flour and knead until the dough is smooth and not sticky. Cover with plastic wrap and allow to proof for 2 hours in a warm place. Grease a baking sheet with cooking spray or more oil and divide the dough into 10 equally sized rolls. Allow to proof for an additional hour. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Bake for 20 mins. Allow to cool completely before using.

Hollandaise Sauce

Yields: Approx. 8 Servings

3 Egg Yolks
8 Tbl Unsalted Butter, Melted
Pinch Kosher Salt
Pinch Freshly Grated Nutmeg
Pinch Freshly Ground Pepper
1 tbl Lemon Juice
1 tbl water

Place egg yolks, water, lemon juice, salt, pepper and nutmeg in a large measuring cup. Puree with an immersion blender. Slowly add hot melted butter, pureeing with immersion blender until the sauce is light golden yellow and thick. If sauce begins to separate, simply reblend.

Asparagus

Yields: Approx. 8 Servings

1 lb asparagus, trimmed
Kosher Salt and Freshly Ground Pepper
2 tbl White Truffle Oil

Place asparagus on baking sheet and drizzle with oil. Season liberally with salt and pepper. Toss to coat evenly. Place in a 375 degree oven for approx. 15 mins or until the asparagus are just cooked through, but still crisp.

To Assemble:

Yields: 8 Servings

8 Rolls, halved and toasted (I cut off the very top of the roll to make it level so it doesn't tip over)
1 lb roasted asparagus
8 oz lump crab meat (You can get this in a can or in vacuum sealed pouches), room temperature
4 large beefsteak tomatoes, cut into 16 thick slices
1 batch Hollandaise Sauce
16 Poached Farm Fresh Eggs

Place one roll on each plate. Top each half with tomato slice, then asparagus, then poached eggs, then garnish with crab meat and finally a dollop of Hollandaise sauce. Garnish with a dash of Paprika. Serve with fruit, bacon or sausage and/or greens tossed in a light vinaigrette.